Site Tools


Hotfix release available: 2017-02-19e "Frusterick Manners". upgrade now! [49.5] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing CVE-2017-12979 and CVE-2017-12980: 2017-02-19d "Frusterick Manners". upgrade now! [49.4] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing CVE-2017-12583: 2017-02-19c "Frusterick Manners". upgrade now! [49.3] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing security token and media manager: 2017-02-19b "Frusterick Manners". upgrade now! [49.2] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing install and media manager issues: 2017-02-19a "Frusterick Manners". upgrade now! [49.1] (what's this?)
New release available: 2017-02-19 "Frusterick Manners". upgrade now! [49] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available: 2016-06-26e "Elenor of Tsort". upgrade now! [48.5] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing CVE-2017-12979 and CVE-2017-12980: 2016-06-26d "Elenor of Tsort". upgrade now! [48.4] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing CVE-2017-12583: 2016-06-26c "Elenor of Tsort". upgrade now! [48.3] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing security token: 2016-06-26b "Elenor of Tsort". upgrade now! [48.2] (what's this?)
Hotfix release available fixing authad issues: 2016-06-26a "Elenor of Tsort". upgrade now! [48.1] (what's this?)
New release available: 2016-06-26 "Elenor of Tsort". upgrade now! [48] (what's this?)
ramps_marlin_3d_printer

RAMPS/Marlin 3D Printer

PLEASE NOTE: You may NOT use this machine prior to being checked out on it.

Owner/Loaner: Asheville Makers
Donated By: Mojo Coworking
Serial Number: 60121174602
Make/Model: CubeX Duo frame modified to use RAMPS 1.4 board
Arrival Date: August 2017
Manuals: Ramps Assembly Guide Marlin Firmware User Guide
G-code Repetier Extruder
Working Condition: yes
Contact: Steve A.

Overview

The frame is from a CubeX Duo (one of three donated by Mojo Coworking). The printer ran on proprietary hardware and software and was difficult and expensive to maintain, so we decided to convert it to an opensource machine. The hardware was replaced with an Arduino Mega and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The firmware is Marlin. We also replaced the extruder, hot-end, and z-axis endstop, and added a heated bed.

The control software on the laptop is Repetier using Cura as the slicer.

NOTE: If you are new to 3D printing, you should start with the TAZ6 printer. This machine will be easier to use, and we are continuing to dial in the best parameters for the RAMPS machine.

Safety

  • This is an open source printer. Pay close attention to watch for any problems and turn off the printer immediately if you see a problem and report it.
  • NEVER LEAVE THIS PRINTER UNATTENDED! While we are testing the printer, you must remain at the makerspace whenever using this printer to reduce risk of fire. You may prefer to use the TAZ6 for larger prints for this reason.
  • The heated bed is not tempered or safety glass. Abrupt changes on temperature could cause it to crack or shatter. Keep the doors to the printer enclosure closed whenever the bed is heating or cooling (including during your print). If you need to open the door to the enclosure, wear safety glasses.
  • Examine the printer before each use. If it does not appear to be in safe working order, place a sign on the printer, report the issue, and do not use the printer. If you are unable to determine whether the printer is in safe working order, or if you are unsure how to use the printer, ask someone for help.

Usage Instructions

  1. Power on the laptop and open Repetier_Host from the Desktop.
  2. To turn on the 3D printer, flip the switch connection the black and green wires next to the power supply.
  3. In the upper left corner of Repetier, click the arrow next to the Connect button and select the RepRap_Marlin machine. The button should change to a Disconnect button once connected. If the button says Disconnect when you open the laptop, the laptop is already connected to the printer.
  4. Home the machine on the Manual Controls tab and make sure that works okay. Check the z-axis homing to make sure that looks right while we continue to work on getting that dialed in and consistent. If it does not look okay, you can turn off the motors using the button just to the left of the button with a P on it and then manually turn the z-axis rod to get the z-axis set where it should be. Report any problems to a board member so we are aware of them and can keep refining this process.
  5. Load an .stl file using the Load button. An image of your piece should appear in the 3D View tab. IMPORTANT: If your piece is not symmetrical, it will print inverted on the y-axis even though it looks correct in the 3D View tab. To correct this, click the Mirror Object button on the Object Placement tab. Your object will now appear to be inverted, but should print correctly. (This happens because the axes on this machine are set up so that x increases to the right and y increases to the front. If you think about it, you'll realize that this is not the way a standard coordinate system works. And it's not the way the Repetier coordinate system works either… If you're interested in trying to fix this, please let me know and we can discuss!)
  6. On the right side of the screen, select the slicer tab. The slicer should be CuraEngine, the Print_Configuration should be Slower_Speeds, the Speed slider should be set to Slow, and the Filment Setting for Extruder 1 should be PLA. As ew use the printer and get other types of filament, some of these may change, but initially, these setting seem to give fairly good results.
  7. When you have selected the correct profiles and entered your settings, click on Slice with Cura Engine. You should then see an image of what your peice will look like on the printer.
  8. If everything looks good, click on Print.
  9. When your print is done, wait for the bed to cool down. Then remove your print, turn off the printer using the switch connecting the green and black wires next to the power supply, and close the laptop.
  10. Please report any problems or desired changes to the profiles to any board member.

Changing the Filament

Currently, we only have PLA filament for this printer. If you use a different type of filament, you may need to create a new profile for that filament. If you are unsure of how to do this, ask for help. Th change the filament, go to the Manual Control tab in Repetier after powering on the printer and connecting to it (see the Usage Instructions). Heat the extruder to 220 degrees and use the retrassction button to remove the filament from the extruder. At this point, you should be able to remove the filament without resistance. If there is resistance on the filament, continue to use the retraction button to back the filament out of the extruder. To insert new filament, first use your hands to straighten about 6 inches of the new filament as much as possible. This is critical! Then, feed the filament into the extruder until it is resting on the extruder gear (this is hard to see, but looking in from the side of the extruder (front of the printer) can help. once you think you have it positioned properly, use the extraction button to begin pulling the filament into the extruder. Continue watching to make sure the filament feed properly into the hot end. If you are unable to get the filament to feed properly, try straightening it more with you hands. As a last resort, you can remove the fan and metal plate covering the extruder and position the filament inside the extruder manually.

Changing the Hot End Nozzle

We have several differently sized nozzles for the hot end. Initially, the 0.3mm nozzle is installed and the Repetier profiles are set for this. If you need/want to change the nozzle, please contact a board member.

ramps_marlin_3d_printer.txt · Last modified: 2017/08/29 15:18 by 66.190.155.97